Online Adventure

As I cruise through Bukoloto on the back of a motorbike, I hold on with only one hand. The other is in a continuous wave. It may not be the safest move, but I can’t disappoint my fans. And my fans are everywhere.

***

Red carpet treatment down every red dirt road…

When the locals [my fans] see my blonde hair sailing down the road, they come running. The children shriek and chase after the bike. They scream my name, “Muzungo!” It means “white person” (I can’t fault them for accuracy). Everyone’s smiles are as bright as paparazzi flash bulbs.

I came to volunteer in this small, rural Ugandan village, in spite of the fact that I’ve never been into the “v” word – too much of an altruistic ring for me. Not that I’m against lending a hand, but why travel thousands of miles to do so?  The pay-off for volunteering in village name was an opportunity to experience the real Africa.

By ‘real’, I mean tribal. Complete with mud huts, animal skin drums, singing, dancing and unabashed public breast feeding. Of course the ‘real’ Africa is also steeped in some very real problems: AIDS, tropical diseases and crippling poverty. So an authentic African experience means witnessing both stunning culture and staggering poverty.

Today’s Uganda is safe and stable.  Yet years of conflict and halted development have left Uganda one of East Africa’s poorest countries. Not good for Ugandans, but for tourists it means cheap travel, and for volunteers it means endless opportunities.

You don’t have to pay for an incredible cultural experience – you can work for it!

Roughly the size of Britain, Uganda is small by African standards, yet absolutely spectacular. The land encompasses savannahs and swamplands, steamy tropical heat and cool mountain mist. It’s the source of the mighty Nile, world-class whitewater rafting, as well as home to lions, giraffes, elephants, hippos, thousands  of bird species, and the mighty mountain gorillas. Meanwhile, Kampala, Uganda’s capital is arguably the safest capital in Africa.

With Uganda on my mind I hit the web, and quickly discovered there were no short-term volunteer opportunities there.   Since I make my living writing for home and garden magazines, and no one seemed to be looking for 1500 words on the dos-and-don’ts of window treatments, I was ok with doing a longer stint. Resigned to making my contribution via manual labor (i.e. school building) or orphan care, I cruised the many listings for both. Then I stumbled upon a posting by Hope for Orphans and Rural Development [HORD] a Ugandan organization looking for a journalist.

I visited the HORD website and it was clear that it was a grassroots operation. The website was basic, and most of the verbs were incorrect – for starters, I knew I could help with their website.

I goggled the name of the village where HORD was headquartered; it did not goggle. Then I goggled the name of the district where HORD operates; it didn’t goggle either.

I figured it didn’t get more ‘real’ than that, so I sent an email to the founder, Simon Nzigu inquiring about the organization’s journalistic needs. The response was somewhat like the website; strange grammar and a bit confusing. But I got the gist.

Under Simon’s direction Hope for Orphans and Rural Development [HORD] had united a community, found homes for nearly 100 orphans and negotiated 150 school scholarships for orphaned and impoverished youth in the district. HORD had done it all with no outside assistance. But to do more HORD needed funding, and Simon believed that sharing his community’s story was a good place to start.

I liked the story and wanted to help tell it, but the Idealist.org posting had asked for a commitment of 1-month, commencing on March 1. I wasn’t available until March 17. Simon said “no problem.”

And….ACTION!

I spent two days in Kampala, Uganda’s capital. It was everything the guide books promised: good food and good times. It was also packed with good people; honest to goodness do-gooders, A.K.A. volunteers; they were everywhere.

I met volunteers of all ages, professions and nationalities. Beyond medical workers and teachers, I met chiropractors, contractors, IT professionals and even photographers, all whose skills had been welcomed by NGOs  [Non Government Organizations].  Some of the volunteers I met had chosen to take “working vacations”, which sounds like an impossible contradiction.  But in the words of a British chiropractor “at home it’s a job, in Uganda it’s a passion.”

Big City to Bucket Showers

After a weekend in the big city it was time for me to head to “the field” – that’s what they call the rural areas, where the tragedies of the African continent are as vivid as a dashiki.

The day before Simon was to escort me to Kumali District, HORD’s service area, he met me at my hotel for some pre-field prep. For 2 hours he explained that, since AIDS has taken the lives of so many adults, there were countless homes being run by the oldest child, sometimes only 10-years old. HORD was working to find them homes, but there were still hundreds of child-headed households in the district. I was told not to be surprised by the women-to-men ratio, for although AIDS does not discriminate between men and women, men often die faster from the disease.  In some villages, AIDS had widowed nearly half of the women. HORD was actively providing vocational training to these women, teaching them to pool their resources for small business ventures; but most of the women had yet to generate significant income for their families.

Simon had assured me, in advance, that I would have a private room at “the orphanage”, the home he inherited from his uncle, and now shares with 9 orphans.  At the end of our meeting Simon looked at me very gravely and said “about the orphanage…” and I was sure I was about to kiss my privacy goodbye. In a grave tone he informed me that there was no running water or electricity. In light of the prep talk, electricity and water seemed pretty insignificant.

A Star Is Born

Simon and I traveled 4-hours from Kampala to Kumali. The last phase of the journey was on motorcycle taxis, down a red dirt road lined with crumbling mud huts and an occasional brick home – boxes really.

As we drove I thought I heard banging. The motorcycle began to slow and I realized the banging was the beating of a drum. In Kampala I had heard nothing but dancehall music. So for me, the pounding of the drum marked my arrival to “real” Africa.

My excitement, and my nerves, reached their pinnacle. I wondered if the beating of my heart could be heard as clearly as the drum. As we rounded the corner to the HORD office, I burst into tears - pure joy.  The drums had been joined by 100 singing voices, the villagers awaiting my arrival. Everyone was dancing: men, women, children, shaking their hips like I’d never seen before [or since!].  Singing “Samba! Samba!” — “Welcome.”

Playing the Part

I easily adapted to life at the orphanage. Each day I would wake up and go for a run. No matter which dirt path I chose, it was inevitably lined with children on their way to school. Each school requires their students to wear a different color uniform. There were bright yellow uniforms, and orange and blue – the colors played against the expresso skin of the children. It was like running through a human rainbow. And as I ran, they all waved and shouted “”Muzungu!” I suspect I burnt more energy waving than running.

After my run I’d be given a bucket of water; my shower. Then I’d join Simon for tea. Other than those two rituals, every day was different. Since I had been invited to Uganda to tell HORD’s story, Simon wanted to make sure I got the whole story. So we traversed Kamuli district, visiting schools and development projects. Often, while in route to another village, we would make a pit stop to check on an orphan who, thanks to HORD, had found a family.

During my three weeks with HORD I watched Simon negotiate 35 new school scholarships. But as I was representing white girls everywhere, I didn’t want to be seen as a lazy spectator; so I helped a women’s group plant pineapple, I built an elevated pigpen with another group of women. I learned to cross breed the passion fruit.

I loved evenings best.  The orphanage was a row of cement rooms. The walls were painted red and in the lantern light they glowed. It was the perfect backdrop, for I felt enveloped in the warmth of these people that I had come to know.  At night all 9 orphans would be home; ages 4 – 18. From the battery operated radio, there was a constant stream of popular Ugandan music.  At dusk, some of the orphans would be busy with their school work, others cooking dinner. The youngest ones used this time to try and teach me the butt-shaking local dance; I was terrible, and they never tired of laughing at my lame attempts. The teenagers were quick to master my iPod and continued to play ‘deejay’ long after I went to sleep.

I’d Like to Thank….

From the get, I knew it was a good deal; I’d write website copy and they’d show me untouched African culture.  But I had no idea just how good. It was more than just an opportunity to experience authentic Africa, I became connected to it. I didn’t just visit Uganda; I found a second home.

Be a Star…

Hope for Orphans & Rural Development: HORD welcomes all volunteers. To learn more about becoming a HORD volunteer please contact Simon Nzigu at hordug@gmail.com

Idealist: Over 84,000 nonprofit organizations from more than 180 countries have created profiles on Idealist.org. They use these profiles to list information about their missions, programs, services, and opportunities. The Idealist.org website facilitates connections between individuals and institutions that are interested in improving their communities.

Volunteers for Peace: VFP is a non-profit membership organization that serves as a placement service for project hosts and volunteers, linking people with projects. VFP offers placement in over 3000 short-term volunteer projects in more than 100 countries each year.

In an effort to keep the community informed Online Adventure has put together a list of organizations and web sites with additional information to help you make the best decisions when planning your next adventure.  We hope you will utilize this resource as well as our Guide to Sustainable Travel whenever you leave home.

http://www.economicallysound.com 

Allstays provides a list of green hotels and resorts world wide.

Terrachoice has a great list of accommodations which have been audited and rated based on a set criteria of “environmental best practices”standards.

Turismo-Sostenible, based out of Costa Rica, is designed to differentiate tourism sector businesses based on the degree to which they comply with a sustainable model of natural, cultural, and social resource management.
 

GreenVacationHub helps link travelers with accommodations which emphasize good health and green practices.

Ecotourism.org promotes responsible travel in delicate natural areas.  Conservation, preservation, protection, sustainability for environments, communities, cultures.  The site is a resource to find accommodations, tour operators, guides, etc……   which operate under practices designed to help achieve these same goals.

Green Lodging News offers a wealth of information concerning the eco friendly hotel industry and environmentally friendly options for lodging.

The Rainforest-Alliance works to conserve biodiversity and ensure sustainable livelihoods by transforming land use practices, business practices, and consumer behavior.  They offer education, information, and advice on conscious travel as well as an index of sustainable tourism businesses in Latin America and the Caribbean.

Sustainable Travel International promotes responsible travel and eco tourism - supports sustainable development, and helping travelers and travel providers protect the cultures and environments they visit.

One Green Globe is a directory of information and resources on alternative health, environmental, and sustainable lifestyle categories.

There is a wealth of information to be discovered through these sites and the little bit of time spent finding the right type of business for you will come back to you ten fold when you can feel good about the choices you make when traveling close to home as well as far and abroad.

Share Your World but remember to protect it as well.

The issue of Global Warming has become an international concern. Climate change is affecting everything from Polar Bears in the arctic to tropical forests on the equator. In the wake of increased awareness, the Carbon Offsets industry has seen remarkable growth over the past 5 years.

Online Adventure is dedicated to keeping our Carbon Footprint neutral and to promoting both conservation and education in the the fight against Greenhouse Gas Emissions.

A Carbon Footprint is based on the amount of Greenhouse Gas an individual or business causes to be released into the atmosphere through daily life.  Driving, flying, using electricity, even the trash we produce can add to our footprint.  By purchasing carbon offsets, you help fund a project that can prevent one ton of greenhouse gas from being emitted for each ton that you have caused.

The first and most important step to becoming Carbon Neutral is to reduce your own Carbon Footprint through conservation measures. You can find a great deal of advice online through private sites like CarbonFootprint.com, non profits such as the Nature Conservancy, and governmental agencies like the EPA.

Should you choose to then buy Carbon Offsets, here are a few helpful hints to making a choice that will have a positive impact on the planet and that you can feel good about.

1st. Make sure the provider is regularly audited and certified by independent third party organizations like Green E and the Gold Standard.

2nd. Avoid projects which involve reforestation. We believe that planting trees is always a good thing however recent studies have brought into question how effective such projects are as a Carbon Offset strategy. Methane recapture and renewable energy projects seem to offer the best cost to benefit value.

3nd. Be absolutely certain that the offsets you purchase cannot be resold!

Eco Business Links offers an in depth compare and contrast of the most popular Carbon Offset providers based on price, types of project, and level of independent certification.

At Online Adventure we like the new resource that has been put out by The Environmental Defense Fund (EDF) and which lists approximately a dozen projects all of which have been chosen based on a strict criteria and backed by the most up to date science. This list includes a variety of projects offered by a number of Carbon Offset providers like:

CarbonFund.org
Terra Pass
e-BlueHorizons
Sterling Planet
The CarbonNeutral Company
EcoSecurities
3Degrees
Renewable Choice Energy

With a little research you can find a project that you think is worthwhile and a provider that meets with your approval and then it is only a matter of time before we are all living…

Carbon Neutral

Central Park? Are any birds there except pigeons? That’s the response I usually get when I say that one of the main reasons I live in New York City is because the bird watching in the big parks is so good — much better, in fact, than in the countryside or in any other American city.
If you have ever flown over New York City you’ve had a bird’s eye view and can see for yourself that, if you were a bird migrating north or south, you’d have very few choices among extensive sites with trees, water, and whatever else you needed to rest and refuel. In short, Central Park, and those in the other city boroughs are oases for birds. The migrants passing over New York are concentrated in the parks, where they are at greater densities than in wilder areas beyond the city. Rare or unusual birds are easier to find, and the park landscapes make seeing birds of all kinds easier than in a dense forest.

Among birdwatchers, this is well known. Central Park draws city birders from all over Manhattan. The American Museum of Natural History and other organizations offer bird walks every spring and fall. Commuters from green suburbs take the early train in to look for birds in Central Park rather than at home. Serious birders from elsewhere in the United States and all over the world come to Central Park at the height of the spring migration, to enjoy the spectacle.

There are interesting birds to see in Central Park all through the year. Spring begins in late February or March, when the first migrants, robins, grackles, various sparrows, that have wintered only a bit farther south start moving through. In April, when some insects and the first leaves are out, more species arrive. The bulk of the land bird migrants move through this region in late April and May. They feed on insects that do not emerge until the weather is warm and there are leaves on the trees. Most of these birds winter in the tropics — Caribbean islands, Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. They are on their way to northern forests. In mid-May, it is possible to see more than a hundred species in Central Park, warblers, flycatchers, thrushes, tanagers, orioles, etc., including the most brightly colored of North America’s breeding birds.

The migration tapers off rapidly by early June, leaving about thirty species that nest in the park. The first southbound migrants appear in mid-July, with numbers and diversity picking up by later August, especially after cold fronts. September and October bring back most of the birds that went north in May. Fall birding, however, is more challenging, because many birds have molted into less conspicuous plumages. In addition, they are no longer singing, so they are harder to locate, especially because the leaves are still thick on the trees. By November, most of the long distance migrants have passed through. Sparrows and other seed eaters that can find food all winter in the middle latitudes dominate now. November is also when owls arrive, roosting by day in thick evergreens, where they are hard to spot. In contrast, many species of waterfowl come to the reservoir, where they lose all fear of people and are far easier to observe close up than on ponds and lakes. They stick around until extreme cold arrives and the reservoir freezes. By late winter, they return, along with those first migrants, the robins, grackles, and sparrows, to start the cycle and the spectacle again.

By: Roger F. Pasquier

Environmental Defense Fund

A couple of years ago I worked for the international travel documentary company Grainger Television Australia. While helping to make the documentary film “On Thin Ice” my eyes were opened to a sad but true reality. “On Thin Ice” documents the ongoing, and worsening, consquences of global warming for the unsteady polar bear population in the Arctic.

Arctic Facts

Polar Bears hibernate during the summer, and wake to feast using the oncoming winter sea ice as a hunting platform. With the summer sea ice reducing in size every year, this pushes back the onset of the winter sea ice, resulting in the bears fasting for longer periods of time each year.

Female polar bears especially rely on this sea ice to hunt for seals to ensure their cubs have a chance at reaching adulthood. Not only does the lack of food dramatically slim the chances of the cubs survival, but it reduces the mothers ability to reproduce the following year. With an exponential decline in female weight averages, every year is producing a lesser number of cubs.

Polar Bears are turning to desperate, and unnatural, measures in their search for food, and increasingly moving towards populated towns such as Churchill, Canada and Longyearbyen, Norway as a last attempt to scrounge for food. Churchill, found on the rim of Hudson Bay, was the first location in the documentary and has a long history of interaction between humans and bears. The Polar Bear Alert Program (PBAP) was set up in 1969 and continues to protect the people of Churchill from any impending attacks. While attacks are not common (only 8 people have been killed in Canada in the last 30 years), the bears are venturing deeper and more frequently into the town due to their hunger. This results in the bears, and in some cases their cubs, having to be tranquilized and released back out of the towns reach.

In an effort to try and understand the severity of the problem, Nick Lunn, whom we interviewed for the production, spends his days out in his helicopter to tranquilize, tag and study the bears around the Hudson Bay area. He has found that there is a huge reduction in overall body mass for the bears, finding some having perished from starvation. The condition of the bears is worsening every year, and the average number of births was dwindling.
In Longyearbyen, the same tranquilizing study technique is applied and the results are just as dire, if not worse than Churchill. The North American pack ice is much more stable than the drifting ice of Norway, so when the ice fails to freeze, the bears are forced to find new ground completely. One recent study by the Norwegian Polar Institute found only one maternity den in the area, where a healthy year should contain anywhere up to thirty. The climate is shifting the prime condition in which the females need to give birth, so they are forced away.

During the making of this documentary, I had to sift through days and days of footage, of which an hour finally makes it to our screens via the National Geographic channel. For every sobering image that is aired, there are ten that sit on tapes on an archival shelf. I find that with all the talk about global warming, little realization is actually attached to the words. Seeing the images of polar bears that have starved to death during a period that should be teaming with hunted seals, along with “then and now” images of what should be a frozen lake really must be seen by all. Society shouldn’t have to be reminded why they need to turn off that light. They should look at the evidence and say to themselves “this is why I turn off the light”. It brings a purpose to all the changes in our lifestyle that are being dubbed our new way of living, especially when they are changes that need to be made.

By: Lisa Downs
OLA Username: lisandowns

When Westerners think of Sub-Saharan Africa and other “developing” regions of the world, there are a lot of assumptions. I don’t love the term “developing nation”, to begin with, as it imposes the expectation that the people of said nation not only desire their country to be “developed”, but also that when they at last attain that hallowed “developed” title, they will, as a nation, be complete. On top of that, Westerners assume that the people of “developing” countries – having none of the modern technological conveniences – live close to and in direct harmony with the Earth Mother, 24/7. While this may appear to be true in some rural areas of Sub-Saharan Africa (in a much less idealized, Hollywood way, of course), cities there are the same cement-covered, pollution-producing cities we Westerners are so proud to call home. Upon showing an elderly American relative of mine photographs of a traffic roundabout in Ghana, her eyes opened wide, and she touched my shoulder in search of an explanation, exclaiming “Oh! I didn’t think they had cars there!” Believe it, Sister. When planning to visit undeveloped countries like those across West Africa, you can’t assume that your work as an Eco-Traveler will be as easy as doing like the locals do. The fact of the matter is, there are practices used by both “developing” and “developed” nations that are green, and some that are quite the opposite. Here are a few tips to get you thinking Green.

Avoid Air Conditioning. When it comes to air conditioning, just…don’t.  Sure, it’s tempting when your little tourist body has been trudging around in Sub-Saharan heat for weeks. And it’s not fair, because your West African hosts are more acclimated to the heat – they can take it a lot easier than you, right? Tough. This is a case in which you’ll just have to do like the locals do, kid, because air-conditioning – justifiable or not – is reeeally bad for old Mami Earth. The amount of energy an air-conditioner uses is enough to quadruple the carbon footprint of your trip in a matter of minutes – especially if the air-conditioner is an older model, which in foreign countries, they often are. The eventual process of disposing of air-conditioning units is highly problematic too; even in “developed” countries people rarely observe the eco-friendly disposal procedures, and all-too-often the chemical-laden units wind up in landfills, leaking their highly-toxic coolants into the ground water. In countries that may not have the resources to city-plan their landfills a safe distance from their reservoirs, that’s even worse news.
So what’s a better way to beat the heat? Mist yourself with a small spray bottle, for a stank-free alternative to sweat. A hand-held fan completes the air-conditioning effect, and – check it out – they’re solar-powered these days! Silly-looking: perhaps. Eco-friendly: definitely.

Use Less Water. Speaking of spray bottles, water can be a very tricky issue in places like Sub-Saharan Africa. Ingesting untreated or contaminated water can result in any number of sicknesses from dysentery to typhoid or worse. But how to protect yourself while protecting the Earth as well?
Don’t buy bottled. The quickest way to look like a softie tourist is carrying around one of those store-bought “Voltic” bottles along with your camera and sunglasses. Locals don’t buy them because it’s a waste of money. You shouldn’t buy them because it’s just a plain waste. In an Earth-unhealthy catch-22, nations that don’t have a centralized system for treating water aren’t likely to have recycling programs either. Check out the blog article on the evils of bottled water here, and boil and treat your own water when you’re over there. Sure, it’s a little inconvenient and maybe this is one of those Dos you [have to] do a little more often than the locals because their stomachs are more accustomed to their water.  But taking a few minutes in the quiet of the evening… building a fire and boiling some water with friends…it’s a whole lot better than all those bottles ending up downstream.

Bucket baths. It may be hard for folks accustomed to running water to understand the concept of a bucket bath (How can you get as clean if the water isn’t running? Where do I put my soap? What will drown out the sound of my shower singing?), but when you learn the ropes, it can be one of the greatest joys of your Sub-Saharan trip. The mechanics are simple: fill large bucket with water you know to be clean enough to wash (water that you wouldn’t necessarily drink, but you know to be uncontaminated – good clean rain barrels are great for this), and grab a smaller bucket or large cup and some soap. Scoop some water from the larger bucket with your smaller bucket, and dump it over your head. Lather with soap and repeat; it’s as easy as it is refreshing. One important thing to remember is that, while the bucket bath may not get you as clean as the overhead-shower, locals take them at least twice a day. A common Western misconception about the cleanliness of people who take bucket baths is that they must not value cleanliness as much as the Showerer, while in fact the embarrassing truth is that the bucket bather thinks Westerners are disgusting for bathing only once every day or two. Part of the logic here is that ever-present Sub-Saharan heat (refer to item one: Air-conditioning); when you’re sweating, the dust of the day tends to stick that much more obstinately, and a bucket bath around noon, and again just before bed is the perfect way to cool down and clean up.

Wash your clothes by hand. Hopefully, you wouldn’t dream of having someone else do your laundry, so why an energy-guzzling machine? Laundromats and washing machines aren’t an option for the vast majority of Sub-Saharan residents, so every man, woman, child is a whiz at hand-washing – get someone to show you how to do it. It takes a little practice, but in addition to being greener, it’s a lot more fun washing clothes and making friends then slinking off to some high-wattage tourist trap just to avoid getting your hands wet. Sun-dried clothes feel better on your skin and your conscience.

Use the outhouse. Properly dug outhouses allow waste to be treated the way Mother Nature intended: cleanly and efficiently. No running water means no water wasted. Plus, even running water doesn’t mean that waste is properly treated… It could be running right out the back of that nice hotel and down to the beach where you’re planning on taking a dip.

Deal with your trash. This is an instance where “doing as the locals do” may not be enough. As in any country, some people use trash receptacles, and some people don’t. But in many “developing” countries, even if you use the trashcan, you don’t necessarily know where the trash will end up. Keep an eye out for opportunities to avoid making trash at all. When packing to make the trip, avoid bringing anything non-biodegradable that you may need to throw away when you arrive (feminine hygiene products, shampoo bottles, etc.) Other than that, the rules are sort of the same as the are anywhere else. When making a purchase in the market, plan on using your own bag instead of the plastic one the vendor may try to provide for you. Bring your own camera, instead of the disposable kind. And if you have to make trash, use the “pack it in, pack it out” philosophy if you’re in a more rural area – your trash is more likely to be dealt with in an Earth-healthy manner in the city.

Mind your Bug Spray. Bug-spray is a fact of life when traveling in Sub-Saharan Africa. Even more than your prophylactic medications, keeping off mosquitoes in the first place is your best defense against contracting malaria. Travel-guides will tell you that bug sprays containing DEET are the most effective for repelling mosquitoes, and they’re probably right: DEET is a heavy-duty pesticide, and as such will kill mosquitoes dead. But therefore, like any pesticide, these repellents are poisonous to other living things. There aren’t yet enough long-term studies documenting the bioaccumulation of DEET in the environment to know exactly how using this stuff on our skin will affect our environment down the line. But in the meantime, be wary of your use of DEET-containing repellents: use it only on your person (spraying it into the air doesn’t really do much for anyone), don’t throw away half-used bottles of it, and minimize your use by supplementing with natural eucalyptus or lemongrass-based repellents – which feel and smell a lot better anyway. Also, whenever you’re not adventuring, stay inside screened-in areas if you can help it, especially at dusk – mosquitoes’ favorite time to strike.

Never Spring for a Taxi. In countries that lack major systems of mass transit, cars can seem like your only option. Despite people like my elderly aunt who thought West Africa had no cars at all, gas-guzzling and air pollution are major problems in “developing” countries, where emissions standards are non-existent, and older, broken-down cars are the norm. The road to cutting your fuel consumption in “developing” countries is no different than anywhere else: ask around to learn your other transportation options, and do like the thriftiest locals do. For traveling around town, buses or share-taxis (called Car Rapide in Senegal, Tro-Tro in Ghana, Molue or Danfo in Nigeria) may not take you door-to-door, but are well-worth it when it comes to price, experience, and street-cred. You may also ask locals about renting a bicycle; it’s an option more often than one might imagine, and is personally my favorite mode of transportation, affording a unique mobility in cities and towns without the fare or limitations of a taxi. And if a bike isn’t available, try taking your trip on foot. Learn from the local term “African Time” and allow yourself the luxury of slowing down to a stroll, and taking in the sights and sounds.
For longer trips, it is possible to get a personal taxi-ride miles into the bush, but where a taxi can go, so can a bus. The bus is always bound to be a more interesting experience, and is “greener” to your wallet and the environment. Just maybe don’t sit in back…it’s a whole lot bumpier back there.

Take (only) photographs. As on any trip, don’t take the plants and animals – they need to stay where they are. But make sure you take video, photographs and make some memories to share. The more people hear about the natural wonders out there, the more likely we will be able to protect them.

By: Maggie Sandford
OLA Username: MaggieSandford

Newport is a storied destination for colonial architecture, Gilded Age mansions, the history of sport (yachting, golf, polo, the International Tennis Hall of Fame), cultural institutions and much much more.  A three day visit at least.

The Trees

A world renowned collection of trees, native and imported exotics from all over the world, have prospered for two-hundred years.  Leafless in winter, they are appreciated now in a new aspect and they unveil the legendary buildings they conceal in summer.

The Sea

Newport offers a majestic, elemental seascape in winter.  Several miles of beaches facing south into the prevailing wind attract year-round surfers to one of the top surfing venues in America.  Gentle, curving ocean drives to view it all are ideal for bicyclers.  Given three-hundred years of shipping, colorful, frosted shards of sea glass glint in the sunlight on the shores.  Regular boat trips take you to harbor seal haul out ledges.  People come from afar to fly kites at windy Brenton Point.  Frost bite sailing continues throughout the winter.  The more adventurous might ship out for a day with a lobsterman to see how it is done.

The Birds

Newport, and the Manhattan-sized Aquidneck Island of which it is a part, comes into its own a a premier winter bird watching site in a contained area.  Virtually all Peterson Guide sea and pond ducks for this area can be seen in two days in the ocean or at accessible inland ponds and reservoirs.  The Sachuest National Wildlife refuge harbors Harlequin Ducks, Purple Sandpipers, and other species like the Short-eared Owl, Northern Harrier, Horned Larks, Snow Buntings and the occasional Snowy Owl.  More visible in winter than in summer is the islands retinue of hawks:  Red-tailed, Goshawk, Cooper’s, Sharp-shinned.  Northern Gannets can be seen offshore, and the occasional rare gull rewards the patient watcher.

The Aquidneck Land Trust has preserved over 2,000 acres of land suitable for walking (with dogs), snowshoeing and cross country skiing.

By: George Herrick

When it comes to eco-tourism, the messages are out there:  pick up after yourself, respect the traditions of your destinations, re-use and recycle, use reputable guides, use public transport…the list goes on.  It’s one thing to study your sustainable travel to-do list while sitting in the terminal waiting for your plane that will use one gallon of fuel for every second it is in the air, but how feasible is it to be environmentally conscious when away from home?  Do people actually follow through on good intentions?

I took the road less traveled over New Years when I visited Bulgaria. Prior to leaving it occurred to me, while I knew many of the basics of green travel, I had never really made an attempt to implement them.  So I decided to score myself on this trip and see how green I could be.
Prior to my departure, I decided to carbon offset my flights.  While it sounds expensive to offset a 4082km flight, it’s actually quite the opposite.  My return flight, via Munich, using Climate Care, only cost me £5.19.  Details of all the projects my donation will contribute to are listed on their website. For additional information about purchasing carbon offsets check out the Better World Club or Sustainable Travel International

Green Traveler: 1 Bad Traveler: 0

Feeling better about my pro-green flight, I touched down in snowy Sofia unsure what to expect of this post-communist country.  The landscape and architecture oozed bleakness from under a thick blanket of snow, with the black fur and leather worn by a myriad of Bulgarian woman seemingly colorful against the city backdrop.
My first eco-conscious dilemma met me at the airport.  My flight landed at 11:30pm and I was faced with very limited public transport services which only accepted small change, and I, having just changed £100 into Bulgarian Lev, only had large notes.  My second issue was that it was nearly midnight, in a country which had stayed true to its Cyrillic alphabet and where I was headed was still a mystery to both me and the airport information staff.  Dilemma one settled: I would get a taxi.  I will make up my green brownie points later in the trip.  At this point all I wanted was my warm hostel bed, safeguarding me from the thickening snowfall.

Green Traveler: 1 Bad Traveler: 1

My next eco challenge appeared that night in the hostel, and would be an ongoing issue throughout the trip.  Like many Eastern European countries, most plumbing or sewerage systems cannot handle the copious amounts of waste thrown down the toilet every day - they are far too underdeveloped.  As a result, a traveler may come across the toilet (be it western or squat) with a bucket to its side.  This is to be the new home for the paper.  This I could do.  The plus side to any of these toilets is that you develop an amazing ability for holding your breath for long periods of time.  A big “tick” on the rough-it-on-the-squat front.

Green Traveler: 2 Bad Traveler: 1

The next day saw my third dilemma.  Being English, a cup of tea normally solves everything…but could it solve this?  The test came in the form of afternoon snack and a cuppa tea after a long day of walking around the many cathedrals within the capital, to which I found a large pro and a rather large con.  Pro: During winter, with -10C temperatures outside, sitting inside is not only warmer, but more environmentally friendly since I wouldn’t have to use a disposable cup.  Con:  In Bulgaria, they have yet to enforce the smoking ban for indoor areas, regardless if food is served there or not. (The image of the Rila chef ashing her cigarette over the stove will always be a favorite ingrained into my mind)
What will win?  The effort to become a green traveler, or my non-smokers lungs?  It was only my third challenge and I couldn’t bear to have only conquered one obstacle thus far, so green it was.  I slowly found that there will always be a little pocket where the concentration of smokers don’t congregate, and in the places they do I simply stepped outside and skipped lunch.  Another pro: a non-smokers diet heaven.

Green Traveler: 3 Bad traveler: 1

Challenge #4 came when Chalet Isabella in Bansko offered us free transfers to and from the ski lifts each day, and also trips within town.  This was a slightly win-loose situation, as at 7am decked out in all your ski gear it’s quite difficult to make your way to the ski lifts, so I opted for the rides.  Bad traveler yes… BUT, to compensate, I declined the rides into town and walked everyday.  Bansko is a reasonably small town and is completely walkable if you aren’t deterred by snow, cold or alcohol after a night of karaoke.  It’s also a great opportunity to walk off the mass amounts of meat that Bulgarians consume (vegetarians - you are almost wholly restricted to bean soup for the duration of your journey).

Green Traveler: 3.5 Bad Traveler:  1.5

My final challenge lay high up in the Bansko mountain range where skiers and snowboarders of all ages take a break to re-coup and re-group.  Having never invested myself in any snow sports except sliding on garbage bags at a camp in year 6, I had no idea what to expect when it came to lunch and snacks.  Bringing a water bottle is a must, however lack of re-fill opportunities hinders the green attempt on plastic bottle wastage.  Lunch was something else - do I bring my own lunch? Will I be able to leave my pack somewhere? Will I have to ski with a backpack full of melting chocolate and squashed sandwiches?  All these questions impaired my green vision and ultimately I decided upon buying lunch up on the mountain in one of the 2 cafes they provided.  Should I visit again, I would certainly take my lunch up to the top.  Not only are there places to leave bags for a novice, but the variety of hot chips and German sausages they had to offer were only served on paper plates, which are promptly thrown away to their new lives as landfill.  Plus when you realize there is actually ice on the crooked table and your chips slide off into the snow before you can even consume one, it all seems in vain.  So high on the mountain, I was far from the green grass and further still from the green traveler I had aspired to be.

Green Traveler:  4.5 Bad Traveler:  2.5

Looking back on the trip, I realize there are always circumstances that won’t allow you to be the green traveler you would like to be.  As long as you are conscious of what all the options are and what the environmental consequences of them may be, you will be able to travel (relatively) guilt free and the environment will thank you.

By: Lisa Downs

OLA Username: lisandowns

Affordable options that won’t blow the budget

Snack Time…

Upon arriving in New York, my friend Frank and I arrived at our first specialty store, Pommes Frites.  The tiny, heavily wooden exterior is reminiscent of those quiet old Western storefronts, and is certainly no indication of what’s inside.  I pushed the door open to only be backlogged by a large group of people crammed in a long narrow space, yelling out orders over the counter to cooks working amidst the fiery heat of the fryers.   Pommes Frites specializes in making Belgian fries, whose secret is that it’s fried twice (as if the first time isn’t unhealthy enough).  But what makes Pommes Frites so tantalizing is the dizzying array of sauces and dips with which to pair the fries.  This is no place for the indecisive or faint of heart.  After a bit of time (punctuated by unfriendly stares from hungry customers), we finally decided on the sweet mango chutney mayo, the curry ketchup, and the peanut satay.  It was so good that, young budget travelers that we were, we kept all the sauces and reused it again with fast food fries, onion rings, and just about anything fried we could get our hands on.

Heartier Fare…

While in search for more filling fare, we were alerted about Francisco’s Centro Vasco, whose dimly lit interiors house some of the largest lobsters I have ever seen served on a plate.  “Where do they grow these monsters?” I wondered to myself, but I was so enamored with the succulent meat on my plate that I completely forgot to ask.  But regardless of where, just eyeing these lobsters is a rare treat, and even if you don’t order it you can easily imagine the sizes from the lobster claws that hang festively on the ceiling.
Another place that I was curious to see was Carnegie Deli, the famous Jewish style deli, primarily because it was visited by the hardy food warrior Andrew Zimmerman.  Slices of pastrami piled unbelievably high on a Carnegie Deli sandwich do not lay waste to the wallet, though it will post some challenges to the stomach.  Frank did remarkably well, though he did pay the price of food coma, which cut that day a little short.

And Something Sweet to Cap it off…

No meal is ever complete without dessert, and I’ve been ingrained with a sweet tooth that is activated the moment food coma hits.  Thankfully, a short subway trip and walk later, our dessert cravings were easily satisfied at a shop that specializes in rice pudding – charmingly named Rice to Riches.  A hip little joint with sleek, mod furniture and bright glaring lights and colors, Rice to Riches exudes a fun, playful attitude exhibited by the humorous, witty phrases posted all throughout its interior and cute flavor names.  Over twenty different flavors available, changed daily and changed often.  If you’re still searching for more dessert, or even a late night snack, one last veritable institution to visit is the Shake Shack.  Shack no longer, but a rather permanent sight in Madison Square Park, it houses burgers and shakes (called “concretes”) reminiscent to its West Coast counterpart In-N-Out, but with a flair all its own.  The food is quite tasty and the location can’t be beat.  If you survive the line (consult the “Shake cam” to see if there’s a crowd), there’s something very romantic about sitting outside in the park under the twinkling lights.

So keep walking…

A culinary experience in New York doesn’t always mean a blow to the budget.  For something a little more unique, keep walking and exploring for those fun little joints that you’ll remember beyond those expensive, cookie cutter meals.  And who knows, the walking will probably help stave off the food coma and let you keep eating just a little longer.

By:   Phoebe Chuason

OLA Username:  Purzha

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings.
Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.
The winds will blow their own freshness into you…
While cares will drop off like autumn leaves.”

John Muir

Let me get this straight. I have to pay to climb a mountain? You’ve got to be kidding me right? It reminds me of the scene in the captivating movie about Christopher McCandless, Into the Wild, when trying to paddle down the churning Colorado River. “There’s a waitlist to paddle down a river?” My first thought was exactly like his. Thanks but no thanks.

When recently compiling a list of Colorado 14ers to climb this coming spring and summer, I saw that some peaks had a little notice next to their name under “fees.” Both Mt. Democrat and Lincoln have fees but the big kicker is Culebra Peak. To climb this southernmost 14er in the Sange de Cristo range you have to pay an unbelievable $100 dollars to private landowners.

To make matters worse, private landowners can dictate when and if people can climb “their” mountain. Apparently not only do I have to pay but I also have to ask permission? Seriously? I read such things and instantly start to laugh. How can you own a mountain?

My first reaction was confusion and complete frustration. These people are dictating where I can and can’t go. I can’t walk out my door and say I’m going to climb that peak today. That doesn’t sit well with me. Then I did a little more research.

As in most cases, there are two sides to this story. Summit bids for Mt. Lincoln, Democrat and Bross are still officially closed by their landowners “Due to liability concerns about potentially collapsing slopes, open mine shafts, and recurring vandalism to their property.” (Colorado Fourteener Initiative, 2008) I do agree with closing the routes if there is potential danger and recurring vandalism to the area. What surprises me is the vandalism issue. A major part of climbing or traveling in general is respecting the land and when that rule isn’t followed, eco friendly travelers like myself continue to pay the price. As for Culebra Peak and its fee and reservation system, “The owners possess a very strong commitment to ethical land stewardship, and their long-term objective is to strike a balance between recreational access to Culebra and ecological sustainability of the mountain system.” (Colorado Fourteener Initiative, 2008) Once again I agree with this because ecological sustainability is the most important factor to remember. I respect the decision that was made on behalf of Culebra if it was done for no other purpose than sustainability. You don’t want a problem with litter like that of Mount Everest here in Colorado.

Although I agree with liability rights of landowners, I guess I’ll never truly understand how you can put up a no trespassing sign in nature. If you respect the land and the people who own it then it is my firm belief that we are free to walk wherever we please. The few who are irresponsible have cost many people that right to freedom. So to all of you fellow adventure travelers out there, tread lightly and leave no trace.

Until the routes are reopened, there are plenty other 14ers out there just waiting to be climbed. I’ll see you out there!

By: Joe Rogers
OLA Username: Travelinjoe