Assos Greece

 

  Sailing the Ionian Sea's Greek islands is a one of a kind adventure!   Every day is a peaceful cruise with perfect temperatures and warm, clear water.  Each new destination sparks the imagination with the promise of delicious food, beautiful views, and the chance to experience a centuries old culture on its own terms.  Indeed,  I relished every moment of the journey and yet, if I had to choose one place which truly stood out as exemplary,  it would undoubtedly be the small village of Assos on the northwest coast of Cephalonia.

 

 

Though it is the largest, and arguably most scenic, of the Ionian islands, Cephalonia is also the least populous and has for the most part avoided the throngs of tourists which congregate in places like Corfu.  The high season has its share of crowds in hot spots like Fiskardo, Argostoli, and Sami.   There are also vacation attractions like Myrtos Beach, the Monasteries of Kipoureon and Sissia, and the wonderous cave complexes at Melissani and Dhrogarati but in general it is a place where travelers can find peace, quiet, and the vestiges of a world which seems not to have changed too much for centuries.   Mt. Aenos, standing over 4,000 feet is the tallest peak in the region and visitors can still marvel at ancient stands of Cephalonia Fir which still blanket some of the island's mountainous slopes.  Wood from these magnificent trees has been found in the structure of the Minoan Palace at Knossos on Crete.   I was intrigued to learn that the trees were also probably used by Odysseus to build ships when he sailed for the Trojan war around 700 BC, and I could not help but feel that our decision to visit the area by sea was all the more approriate.

 

 

Our arrival at Assos was timed to perfection.  The small harbor offers room for only a few boats but we happened to be first in, and though the entrance faces into he prevailing breeze and swell which often makes the anchorage less than comfortable,  we were lucky enough to choose the calmest day of the entire trip, anchoring in barely a breath of wind which dropped to nothing towards the evening.  Once settled,  we gazed in awe at perhaps the most picturesque little town I have ever seen.  The water was clear and glassy,  decorated here and there with small fishing dories.   The buildings, painted in bright peaceful colors,  seemed everywhere draped in lush vegetation and flowers.  The scene in short was perfectly charming, and standing watch over it all was the elegant remnants of a 15th century Venetian Fortress.

 

 

The town of Assos rests on a tiny isthmus,  a natural causeway connecting the mainland to the fortified peninsula whose circuit of outer walls remain almost entirely intact.   Inside the walls, the adventurous will find myriad ruins amid old olive orchards and years of overgrown vegetation, including the Ancient Venetian Governors mansion, Garrison and Barracks, and several small chapels.  

 

Assos is one of the more difficult places to get to overland and as such sees a minimum of tourists however anyone who does make it there is certainly rewarded for the effort.  The shaded square and quaint harborside cafes make for a relaxing and enjoyable afternoon, and the laid back atmosphere is simply wonderful.

 

After  a quick dip to cool off, we made one last check of the mooring lines then headed for the main square and found a perfect little harbor side cafe where we settled in for lunch.   There are so may delicious choices on the greek menu that we generally ordered a wide array of food and all shared.  Calamari was, of  course, a staple at every meal but there was never a shortage of new and interesting things to try.  Today we dined on famed Cephalonia meat pie along with a Little Rizospanaka (spinach and rice), some keftedhes, tiropita, domates yemistes, and for dessert a wee bit of baklava.  Good food, good wine and good friends always makes for an enjoyable repast.

 

 

We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging around the boat reading, snoozing, occasionally swimming, and in general thanking our good fortune at having chosen such a pleasant day to visit this beautiful place.  When the mid afternoon heat began to diminish we packed up a few drinks and snacks and headed off for sunset walk through town and up to the the grand venetian fortress we'd been staring at all day.

 

 

The well constructed road to the top took about 40 minutes to stroll.  Cutback after cutback offered one grand overlook after another, and as our little boat far below grew smaller with each turn the views we were afforded became more breathtaking than any of us could have imagined.  Massive silvery white cliffs extending for miles to the north and south turned endless shades of pink and orange as the sun began its descent towards the horizon.  The huge fortress walls created promontories in every direction.  We watched the light painting the bold and enormous mountains of the mainland,  a steady swell crashing against the cave riddled and rugged coastline, and a sunset for the ages to the west.  The more intimate views were just as intriguing.  Crumbling structures hidden amid the greenery whispered the history of this retreat.  Flowers peeked from cracks and crevices in the old masonry.  I was amazed to see a 500 year old iron cannon lying in a pile of rubble.  We were exploring an outdoor museum of sorts.

 

 

As  dusk settled we found a small path through a beautiful stone archway which took us along steep precipitous cliffs back towards town where we arrived at dark just in time for dinner.   The day had been a glorious one and we all agreed, Assos is a special place.  

 

 

It is, without question, an enchanted town! 

 

 

If you are considering a visit to Assos there are several resources which will help you begin planning your trip.  Here are just a few.

 

The Lonely Planets Greek Islands Travel Guide

 The Rough Guide to the Ionian Islands 

And if you consider sailing through the region Rod Heikell's  Ionian is a must!